One-dimensional ramens and curries at mediocre restaurants obscure the fact that a carefully built broth is an awesome and multilayered thing of beauty that can stand on its own. The artistry of spots like Zen Box Izakaya, Ramen Kazama, and Tori Ramen have leveled up expectations locally and helped introduce Minnesotans to the beauty of a truly well-composed broth.
Case in point: Tori Ramen’s Farmer’s Market Green Curry Ramen ($15). On paper, a simple, vegetable-heavy preparation: peas and corn, pickled chive blossoms, red peppers, and Thai eggplant, plus three kinds of basil (sweet, holy, and Thai.) But in practice, the rich, multilayered, immersively deep broth offers wave after wave of herbal flavor and its complexity is as fascinating as it is comforting.
As per usual with Tori, the house-made noodles are a serious asset—they’re delicate, toothsome, and perfect for cradling the herbal richness that surrounds them. Along with some of the restaurant’s albacore tuna tataki ($16), this dish was picture-perfect on a warm July afternoon.
The Dish: Farmer’s Market Green Curry Ramen, $15
The Place: Tori Ramen, 603 West 7th Street West, St. Paul
The Reason: Unparalleled herbal depth make this a ramen broth to remember.
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