Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
There exists a spectrum of quality croissants that stretches from, for lack of better words, “substantial” to “ephemeral.” On the substantial end of things: think Costco croissants, which lack anything resembling delicacy or style, but make for satisfying sandwiches, laden with scrambled eggs, bacon or turkey, and melted Swiss.
On the ephemeral side of things: the butter croissants at Black Walnut Bakery. If you tried to turn one of these into a sandwich it would surely explode like the world’s gentlest, flakiest, most harmless stick of dynamite. If you were able to pump helium into one of these croissants without it leaking, it would undoubtedly float up to the ceiling, sending a shower of buttery flakes earthbound when it knocked quietly against the light fixture. If you tried to count all the tiny little bits that flake off of one of these when you bite into it, you’d be there all day.
It’s hard to imagine a croissant being taken any further into the world of flaky delicacy without it ceasing to exist, and if curiosity about this is the only reason you get out to Black Walnut Bakery, it’s worth a trip. But the rest of the baked goods there have much to recommend themselves as well—even in a local baking scene that’s moving a mile a minute, it’s a standout shop.
THE DISH: Butter Croissant, $3
THE PLACE: Black Walnut Bakery, 3157 Hennepin Ave S, Minneapolis
THE REASON: There may be no more delicate and flaky butter croissant in Minnesota, or potentially even the world (and therefore the universe…)